July 2-3, 2013
Hello from the Subcontinent of India!
To be honest, I do not know even where to begin.... India is beautiful. Overwhelming. Exotic. Full of history. Tiring. Colorful. Energized. Completely unknown to me. My knowledge of this country has been limited to text books, Buddhist studies, British literature, and current media. I have read a variety of novels since abroad about India's British colonization, 20th-century culture and economy, and recent societal development (from lingering elements of the caste system to the blatant and drastic urban income gap). As you would expect I was more than eager to explore and further understand such histories.
We arrived in Delhi, the capital of India, during the afternoon of July 2nd. Warmly welcomed by the owner of our bed and breakfast, Ajay, we immediately felt at home and reassured in what is portrayed to be a somewhat daunting adventure in the busy city of Delhi. Delhi is quite the fascinating urbanscape. India's second most populous city after Mumbai and largest city in terms of area, Delhi has served as a capital of various kingdoms, empires, and governments from the Pandavan empire to modern India. Its many influences are quite evident in its landscape amongst minimal modern development.
During our first full day here we travelled to every corner of the city. Due to issues of safety, we made our way around the city to major tourist attractions by car. Our first stop was Humayun's Tomb. Humayun's Tomb was constructed from 1562 to 1572 during the reign of the Mughal Empire. Built by the grieving widow of Emperor Humayun, the mausoleum stands as a precursor to the Taj Mahal. The mausoleum is an astounding example of Persian architecture with a height reaching 47 meters, designed with unbelievable quantities of red sandstone and white marble, and delicately detailed by glazed blue tile canopies and filigree screening. (See photos attached)
Emperor Humayan remains buried at the center of the overarching dome (his head directed west towards Mecca) along with an additional 160 familial members buried throughout the tomb. Interestingly enough, a tomb to the east in the complex was constructed to both house and honor the Emperor's barber.
In light of the site's history, what was most professionally intriguing and inspiring was the current conditions of the mausoleum and surrounding community, the Nizamuddin Conservation Area. Located at the heart of New Delhi, the Nizamuddin Conservation Area is the site of a major urban renewal project concentrating on local economic development, the growing and increasingly delapitated residential infrastructure, public services, and environmental concerns. Renewal initiatives include a range of services such as improved waste water treatment to new educational infrastructure and communtiy toilets. As the location of Humayan's Tomb, the Nizamuddin Conservation Area has attracted increasing government attention... it will be interesting to follow Delhi's future urban planning and developement in what is a international metropolis desperately in need of residential and industrial improvement.
After Humayan's Tomb, we ventured to the Qutub Minar Mosque built in 1192 AD. It consisted of an immense open courtyard surrounded by four escalating stone spires. The Qutub Minar is the tallest minar (spire) in India- 237.8 feet or 379 stairs high. After climbing the minar, we spent our time observing many Muslims in prayer and overlooking the large avenues, hotel and commercial districts, and many slums of Delhi. Our next stop the Red Fort of Delhi gave us an immediate and intimate encounter with the city's street and slum environments both expected and daunting- something that is still difficult to express in words.
We ended our site seeing day walking around Jhanpath Market- the girls looking at and trying on traditonal Indian scarves, tunics, and saris. My friend Pippa even bought a sari for her Indian friend's wedding this August and of course in preparation for our visit to the Taj Mahal. Before heading back to the B&B for the night, we stopped at a traditional South Indian restaurant Saravana Bhavan dining on dishes such as homestyle Indian Paneer and an extensive vegetarian Thali of masala spices, vegetables such as kootu, poriysl, and lentil, and Tamarind rice.
Reflecting on our time, our packed day in Delhi was more than succesful and satisfying.
July 4, 2013: A Visit to the Taj in Commemoration of our independence
What a way to spend the Fourth of July!
After two nights in Delhi, we caught a 6 AM train out of the city to Agra in preparation for a full day of luxury at one of the seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal! After checking in at our hotel (another luxury in fact), we arrived at the Taj Mahal by rickshaw at 10 AM.
The Taj Mahal is really the only element of tourism or truthfully even industry in Agra. Agra is a sprawling, undeveloped suburb of Delhi. As we travelled to and from the Taj, we were surrounded by extreme poverty, delapitated infrastructure, both farmland and some manufacturing, expensive automobiles to camels and cattle walking the roads, a few five star hotels and many low lying building- again another portrayal of the nation's suffering economy, income disparities, and 30 percent drop in the tourism industry in the past year.
It was interesting to visit the Taj Mahal during tourism's low season. Being a few of the only foreigners-possibly only Westerners- we were the center of attention as we walked by local salesmen, tour guides, and even people attempting to get you to pay to use a public restroom. After entering the Taj, clad in red white and blue, we again became celebrities as many Indian tourists lined up to get a picture or two with the four American women dressed in red, white, and blue traditional Indian garb and the blond American boy with American flag Raybans in front of a world wonder.
And a world wonder it was. As you approach the red sand stone front gate, the Taj Mahal's white marbled silhouette appears in the distance. The front gate's, detailed by Persian tile work pietra dura, frames the mausoleum in the background. After traversing this archway, one is overwhelmed by the clearly delineated central axis of water fountains and ornament extending to the mausoleum amd surrounded by an immense landscape of open lawn and exotic and colorful plantings. And that is only the approach to the structure...
The Taj Mahal was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in commemoration of his beloved and favorite wife (guess he had more than one :) ) Empress Mumtaz Mahal. Empress Mumtaz Mahal died in 1616 AD after her fourteenth child, and grief stricken her husband built the mausoleum in her remembrance. Materials for its construction were gathered all throughout the Empire- white marble from Rajahstan, jade, garnette, and other stone work from Central Asia and Iran. Supposedly the Emperor had planned to build an additional mausoleum for himself on axis across the river Yumana- one of black marble and completing his garden paradise.
The plan of the Taj Mahal displays strict bilateral symmetry with the mausoleum itself at its center. As we wondered throughout the mausoleum, the finely carved pietra dura inlaid with various precious stones stood out beautifully against the crisp white marble. In addition, the intricate screen filigree from the structure's exterior to the very center where the tombs lay interact with and dapple the reflecting sunlight.
The color of the translucent marble keeps changing from dawn to evening as the sun's angle changes giving it a magical aura in correspondence with Emperor Shah Jahan's wish for a garden paradise.
After time well spent at the Taj Mahal, we ended our afternoon relaxing at our hotel and then had a celebratory dinner in celebration of the Fourth at an Indian restaurant across the street. With bellies full of naan, paneer, and various curries, we slept well and got up early for a train ride back to the busy city of Delhi.
Happy Fourth everyone! Hope your summer bbq and celebration was as fun and enjoyable as mine!
Love in red, white, and blue,
Allie
Hello from the Subcontinent of India!
To be honest, I do not know even where to begin.... India is beautiful. Overwhelming. Exotic. Full of history. Tiring. Colorful. Energized. Completely unknown to me. My knowledge of this country has been limited to text books, Buddhist studies, British literature, and current media. I have read a variety of novels since abroad about India's British colonization, 20th-century culture and economy, and recent societal development (from lingering elements of the caste system to the blatant and drastic urban income gap). As you would expect I was more than eager to explore and further understand such histories.
We arrived in Delhi, the capital of India, during the afternoon of July 2nd. Warmly welcomed by the owner of our bed and breakfast, Ajay, we immediately felt at home and reassured in what is portrayed to be a somewhat daunting adventure in the busy city of Delhi. Delhi is quite the fascinating urbanscape. India's second most populous city after Mumbai and largest city in terms of area, Delhi has served as a capital of various kingdoms, empires, and governments from the Pandavan empire to modern India. Its many influences are quite evident in its landscape amongst minimal modern development.
During our first full day here we travelled to every corner of the city. Due to issues of safety, we made our way around the city to major tourist attractions by car. Our first stop was Humayun's Tomb. Humayun's Tomb was constructed from 1562 to 1572 during the reign of the Mughal Empire. Built by the grieving widow of Emperor Humayun, the mausoleum stands as a precursor to the Taj Mahal. The mausoleum is an astounding example of Persian architecture with a height reaching 47 meters, designed with unbelievable quantities of red sandstone and white marble, and delicately detailed by glazed blue tile canopies and filigree screening. (See photos attached)
Emperor Humayan remains buried at the center of the overarching dome (his head directed west towards Mecca) along with an additional 160 familial members buried throughout the tomb. Interestingly enough, a tomb to the east in the complex was constructed to both house and honor the Emperor's barber.
In light of the site's history, what was most professionally intriguing and inspiring was the current conditions of the mausoleum and surrounding community, the Nizamuddin Conservation Area. Located at the heart of New Delhi, the Nizamuddin Conservation Area is the site of a major urban renewal project concentrating on local economic development, the growing and increasingly delapitated residential infrastructure, public services, and environmental concerns. Renewal initiatives include a range of services such as improved waste water treatment to new educational infrastructure and communtiy toilets. As the location of Humayan's Tomb, the Nizamuddin Conservation Area has attracted increasing government attention... it will be interesting to follow Delhi's future urban planning and developement in what is a international metropolis desperately in need of residential and industrial improvement.
After Humayan's Tomb, we ventured to the Qutub Minar Mosque built in 1192 AD. It consisted of an immense open courtyard surrounded by four escalating stone spires. The Qutub Minar is the tallest minar (spire) in India- 237.8 feet or 379 stairs high. After climbing the minar, we spent our time observing many Muslims in prayer and overlooking the large avenues, hotel and commercial districts, and many slums of Delhi. Our next stop the Red Fort of Delhi gave us an immediate and intimate encounter with the city's street and slum environments both expected and daunting- something that is still difficult to express in words.
We ended our site seeing day walking around Jhanpath Market- the girls looking at and trying on traditonal Indian scarves, tunics, and saris. My friend Pippa even bought a sari for her Indian friend's wedding this August and of course in preparation for our visit to the Taj Mahal. Before heading back to the B&B for the night, we stopped at a traditional South Indian restaurant Saravana Bhavan dining on dishes such as homestyle Indian Paneer and an extensive vegetarian Thali of masala spices, vegetables such as kootu, poriysl, and lentil, and Tamarind rice.
Reflecting on our time, our packed day in Delhi was more than succesful and satisfying.
July 4, 2013: A Visit to the Taj in Commemoration of our independence
What a way to spend the Fourth of July!
After two nights in Delhi, we caught a 6 AM train out of the city to Agra in preparation for a full day of luxury at one of the seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal! After checking in at our hotel (another luxury in fact), we arrived at the Taj Mahal by rickshaw at 10 AM.
The Taj Mahal is really the only element of tourism or truthfully even industry in Agra. Agra is a sprawling, undeveloped suburb of Delhi. As we travelled to and from the Taj, we were surrounded by extreme poverty, delapitated infrastructure, both farmland and some manufacturing, expensive automobiles to camels and cattle walking the roads, a few five star hotels and many low lying building- again another portrayal of the nation's suffering economy, income disparities, and 30 percent drop in the tourism industry in the past year.
It was interesting to visit the Taj Mahal during tourism's low season. Being a few of the only foreigners-possibly only Westerners- we were the center of attention as we walked by local salesmen, tour guides, and even people attempting to get you to pay to use a public restroom. After entering the Taj, clad in red white and blue, we again became celebrities as many Indian tourists lined up to get a picture or two with the four American women dressed in red, white, and blue traditional Indian garb and the blond American boy with American flag Raybans in front of a world wonder.
And a world wonder it was. As you approach the red sand stone front gate, the Taj Mahal's white marbled silhouette appears in the distance. The front gate's, detailed by Persian tile work pietra dura, frames the mausoleum in the background. After traversing this archway, one is overwhelmed by the clearly delineated central axis of water fountains and ornament extending to the mausoleum amd surrounded by an immense landscape of open lawn and exotic and colorful plantings. And that is only the approach to the structure...
The Taj Mahal was built by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in commemoration of his beloved and favorite wife (guess he had more than one :) ) Empress Mumtaz Mahal. Empress Mumtaz Mahal died in 1616 AD after her fourteenth child, and grief stricken her husband built the mausoleum in her remembrance. Materials for its construction were gathered all throughout the Empire- white marble from Rajahstan, jade, garnette, and other stone work from Central Asia and Iran. Supposedly the Emperor had planned to build an additional mausoleum for himself on axis across the river Yumana- one of black marble and completing his garden paradise.
The plan of the Taj Mahal displays strict bilateral symmetry with the mausoleum itself at its center. As we wondered throughout the mausoleum, the finely carved pietra dura inlaid with various precious stones stood out beautifully against the crisp white marble. In addition, the intricate screen filigree from the structure's exterior to the very center where the tombs lay interact with and dapple the reflecting sunlight.
The color of the translucent marble keeps changing from dawn to evening as the sun's angle changes giving it a magical aura in correspondence with Emperor Shah Jahan's wish for a garden paradise.
After time well spent at the Taj Mahal, we ended our afternoon relaxing at our hotel and then had a celebratory dinner in celebration of the Fourth at an Indian restaurant across the street. With bellies full of naan, paneer, and various curries, we slept well and got up early for a train ride back to the busy city of Delhi.
Happy Fourth everyone! Hope your summer bbq and celebration was as fun and enjoyable as mine!
Love in red, white, and blue,
Allie